Some form of two-wheel human transportation has been around for about 200 years, and the fundamentals haven't changed much, but the technology, types, and selection today can be a bit confusing if you 'just want a bike.' Before you go shopping for your bicycle, make sure you really know what you are going to use it for. You can ride most bikes on almost any terrain, but clearly some are better for making groceries, others for fitness on the road, or dusting up hills and trails. Once you've defined what most of your riding will be, you're ready to find your bike.

Bicycles are basically built for on- or off-road use. To define our terms, a 'road' bike generally is oriented toward a fairly constant cadence, smooth surfaces, and higher speeds. Any 'off-road' bike will be designed for the opposite - changing cadence to match rougher and variable terrain, and lower speeds requiring at times more torque and agility. The dimensions of the bike frame will determine the basic geometry and riding position, while the 'setup,' of seat, pedals, handlebars, tires, suspension elements (if any), and utility features like baskets or fenders, will be oriented toward the intended use.

Road bikes

Racing - Everything is lightweight and oriented toward moving as fast as possible with the most efficiency. Look for drop handlebars, clipless pedals, very narrow tires, short wheelbase and overall no-frills design.

Trials/Triathlon - A racing bike designed to be very aerodynamic in every aspect, better suited to a rider who is competing without the benefit of 'drafting' off teammates in traditional road racing. Look for 'aero' handlebars with forearm rests to keep the rider as low and compact as possible.

Cruiser - More upright and casual riding position with an emphasis on comfort and style, sometimes emulating vintage bike models or motorcycles. Cruiser bikes have longer wheelbases, taller handlebar style, wider saddles and tires, more chrome. Variants include the Flatfoot or Crank Forward design where full leg extension is achieved forward vs down as in most bike styles

Touring - Heavier frame and wider tires anticipating cargo in pannier and rack bags, possibly even a trailer. Set up to balance comfort and efficiency on multi-day rides carrying all your own supplies. Tend toward a longer wheelbase for a smoother ride.

Fixed gear - The 'Fixie' is a bike where the rear hub cannot spin freely or 'coast' so the sprocket and rear hub always spin together in the same direction. The rider must pedal constantly to keep moving.

Utility/Cargo - Built specifically for urban use in delivery or cargo applications, with an emphasis on durability. Tend to be heavy and simple, with an upright riding position. Includes tricycle configurations.

Folding - Designed to be very compact when stored. 18" wheels, step-through frame designs, and intended for relatively short distances. The small wheel size can make for a very bumpy ride.

Off-road bikes

BMX - Bicycle motocross bikes usually have 20" wheels, very short wheelbase and overall size. Designed for racing over tight curvy dirt tracks with many jumps, bumps, and turns. Look for very aggressive tire tread, upright handlebars, single speed hubs, and hard, durable saddles. A variant is the Freestyle, designed for trick riding on ramps or flat ground, notable for full-rotation headsets and footpegs on the forks.

Mountain - The 'grownup' BMX bike, with 26" wheels and multispeed hubs. Will have heavier, durable frame construction, sometimes featuring suspension components in the front and rear.

Different elements of each of these can be combined in many ways to suit specific needs, but there are limits to how practical those combinations can be. The most popular 'hybrid' is a durable mountain bike style frame with smoother-tread tires, upright style handlebars, and perhaps a rack or basket, and many brands sell something like this. You can build your own, of course, but modify and accessorize with some care, however. For example, adding a front suspension fork means that when the front wheel hits a deep rut in the pavement, the bike will 'nose down,' and the rider will lose control.

Riding position is a significant part of how much you enjoy your bike. The ideal posture for active riding is with the torso at about a 45 degree forward angle from the pelvis. In this position, the body's weight is borne by the bone structure and muscle strain is reduced while allowing the legs to work with the least effort. However, if you're just out to enjoy some fresh air and say hello to the neighbors, you'll want to sit back a bit. Keep in mind that the further back you lean, the more weight you are shifting onto your lower back muscles and the more vibration is being transferred through the bike frame into your body. For most 'cruiser' style bikes, you'll be at about a 70 degree angle, which is about as upright as you want to be. Riding position will be a significant part of your enjoyment of the bike, so make sure the shop staff fitting you size the frame and adjust the seat and handlebars correctly.

Seat

The seat or saddle is most people's first impression of the 'comfort' or 'ride' of the bicycle. Remember that the seat should be comfortable while riding. How it feels sitting upright in the shop is a poor indicator of your actual comfort. The shape should support the pelvis and not cause any friction on the thighs when pedaling, and when properly adjusted, the height will allow your legs to move through full extension. A suspension ('sprung') seat can absorb jolts from the road, but they tend to be low quality, noisy and the forward pivot point can affect the pedaling angle. A better saddle option is a non-sprung padded saddle best suited for your shape and riding position. For comfort, mount it on a suspension seat post with enough travel to smooth out the ride. If you're sure your riding position is correct and the saddle is making you sore, find a good shop with loaner saddles you can try to find exactly the right fit.

Tires

An obvious element of the intended use of a bicycle are the tires. Off-road tires are knobby, wide, and have a relatively soft sidewall. They are fairly audible on pavement, have a large contact patch for traction and control and will give more rolling resistance. Road tires are narrower, with less tread (but not 'slick'), and are inflated to higher pressure for a smaller contact patch, less resistance, and a firmer ride. Unless you are building your bike from the frame out, the manufacturer has selected tires that match the rest of the setup.

If you see less tread on stock tires, expect the bike's components to be best suited for on-road use. You could mount 'knobbies' on your cruiser to go on the trail, but you probably won't have a great ride.

Maintain the tires by checking pressure on a regular basis and have your pump handy. Properly inflated tires will last longer and perform better. They won't last forever, so when the time comes to replace the stock tires, remember that better rubber means a better ride, so shop carefully and don't go cheap. A higher Threads Per Inch (TPI) number will mean a more durable tire but also a stiffer ride and possibly more rolling resistance. Describe your bike and riding to the shop staff for the best advice. You'll replace them less often and enjoy riding much more.

Suspension

Suspension elements in the front fork and and rear incorporating springs, bushings, and movable joints can smooth out the bumps and allow the rider a bit more 'slack' on rougher terrain, but will also add to bike weight and maintenance, decrease durability and affect the handling of your bicycle. If most of your riding is on challenging trails with frequent drops and climbing, the suspension will certainly take a lot of the strain off your knees, wrists and elbows.

Pedals

How well you convert muscle to mechanical power will depend entirely on your foot placement on the pedal. You should have only your toe on the pedal so your ankle is helping. With platform pedals, there is nothing to keep your foot in place, and you can see people essentially pedaling with their heels and wasting a lot of energy. A toe clip and strap assembly on the pedal will do quite a bit to improve your power transfer, and you'll go farther with less effort. Variations of just clips and/or straps can be very effective, but nothing beats a clipless pedal, which connects directly to a cleat on the bottom of a cycling shoe and allows for muscle use through out the circumference of the stroke. Some casual cyclists are concerned about not being able to move their feet off the pedals quickly, but accidental loss of pedal contact is more likely to cause accidents and injury

Fitting

To really enjoy your bicycle, you should get one that fits. The basic rule of bike fitting is that while riding, your leg should be at full extension when the pedal is at the bottom of its orbit. For many people, this will mean that their toes just touch the ground when seated on the bike. Cruiser style frames have geometry set up specifically to allow full extension and feet on the ground. This 'flatfoot' or 'crank forward' design also results in a more casual riding position that can become uncomfortable over long distances. The seat post can be extended to accommodate taller riders, but if you want a better frame fit, remove the seat and straddle the bike. The top of the seat tube should have about 1" of clearance under you.

Maintaining your bike

Your bike shop assembled your ride and knows how to adjust and maintain it. Listen to them when they give you the tour of tires, brakes, and adjustments. A few basic skills and tools will keep you on the road for many years. Having spray lube, chain cleaner, and a rag to keep things clean are a good start, but are not as important to address the most important skill: dealing with flats.

Part of riding a bike is flat tires. A 'saddle bag' mounted under your seat with a spare tube and tool(s) is great, if you know how to use it. Ask the shop where you are buying your bike to show you how to change a tube and tire. They may charge the same rate for doing the job for you, but it's cash well invested because it will save you the hassle of getting the bike to a shop, if you even have that option.

Bicycle tubes are available in butyl and latex rubber. Butyl is the classic choice since they hold air well, are less expensive, and can be repaired fairly easily. Latex is lighter, has greater elasticity and better puncture resistance, but loses pressure faster than butyl. For a casual rider, the need to check and top off your tires every time you ride can be a bit of a hassle.

Having a bicycle pump is mandatory, even if it's just a frame-mount. If you have room and budget ($30-50) for a decent floor pump as well, you'll use it. CO2 or compressed air inflation devices can be great on the side of the road, but are better suited for occasional/emergency use instead of regular maintenance. Some companies now offer combined pump/inflators that can cover you no matter what.

Get out there

The best bike is the one that fits your size and shape, type of riding, and personal style. A good bicycle shop and informed staff is essential in the final selection. They will know how to measure and fit you, how to set up the bike, and can show you basic maintenance and basic repairs that will save you money and improve your riding.

Glossary

Cadence: Rate at which you are pedaling. Comparable to RPMs in a car.

Bushing: Cushioning element made of rubber or polyurethane used in suspension joints to dampen vibration and absorb shock. May be used in conjunction with springs.

Geometry: The relationship of the three points of contact; hands, feet, and seat. Will affect riding position, comfort, and efficiency.

Hub: Center part of the wheel where the spokes attach.

Sprocket: Main gear, directly attached to the crankset.

Crankset: Connect the sprocket to the pedals.

Saddle: Bicycle seat.

Platform Pedal: Pedal with no shoe attachment or holding system of any kind. Most common on general purpose bikes.

Clip Pedal: Platform pedal with a 'clip' and strap designed to hold the toe of the shoe for improved control. Variations include clip-only and strap-only designs. Can

Clipless Pedal: Low-profile style pedal designed to connect to a cleat on the bottom of cycling shoes. They provide much better power transfer, control, and safety. Very common on road bikes and perfomance or specialty designs.